There is a significant price difference when it comes to using foam insulation to insulate a new versus older home. Spraying insulation inside a newly constructed home is easier because the installation company can ensure the insulation will work effectively and design it for optimum defense against sound, heat transfer and utility costs. Installing spray foam in older homes that contain existing insulation can cost additional time and money -- it is not usually recommended as compared to weatherization or an energy aduit. Coating Services
The average price to cover 200 square feet with a foam insulation kit will run between $300 and $600 (about two to three kits). Inside these kits is something called Icynene, a foam made from two liquids that are heated and pushed through a gun on the can. When Icynene is released, it expands up to 100 times its size as it hits the surface area you're covering. These can contain a lot of gasses, making its installation a dangerous process. Even low-pressure sprayers can be harmful to homeowners' health.
We have a 22 year old home located in southeastern georgia where the humidity is very high. In the past 2 weeks our floors have started buckling all over. We have a vented crawl space and the old insulation is drooping from moisture and the wood is wet. We are debating between the "encapulation" method or the spray foam method to repair this issue. Which would you recommend?
One of the high-tech insulation products being utilized these days is a foam-spray product called "Icynene," which is a foam that starts as two liquid components (a and b, if you will) that are heated up and sent through two hoses and meet at a tip of a gun where the magic begins. This is a thin film that expands to 100 times its volume in eight seconds, when it's permanently set up. Spray Coating Services
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With the increase in spray foaminsulation, many are wondering whether or not you should use a thermal or ignition barrier. Additionally, many are wondering if building codes require ignition or thermal barriers with spray foam insulation. The short answer is that you should use a thermal or ignition barrier, but the code may not necessarily require it. Building codes are often complicated, poorly written, poorly enforced, and up to interpretation by local code officials. This results in ambiguous requirements regarding spray foam insulation and fire protection.
A rule of thumb puts two thirds of the coating on the substrate and one third in the air. True HVLP guns use 8–20 cfm (13.6–34 m3/h), and an industrial compressor with a minimum of 5 horsepower (3.7 kW) output is required. HVLP spray systems are used in the automotive, decorative, marine, architectural coating, furniture finishing, scenic painting, and cosmetic industries.
The fluid pressure is provided by an airless pump, which allows much heavier materials to be sprayed than is possible with an airspray gun. Compressed air is introduced into the spray via an air nozzle (sometimes called air cap) similar to a standard conventional spray gun. The addition of compressed air improves the fineness of atomization. Additionally unlike a pure airless spray gun, an AA gun has some control over fan spray to round spray. Some electric airless sprayers (Wagner and Graco) are fitted with a compressor to allow the use of an air-assisted airless gun in situations where portability is important.
Our insulation and protective coatings are designed for the harshest outdoor and offshore environments, such as those experienced by our customer Sinopec on their offshore fuel oil storage tanks, black liquor tanks in pulp and paper mills like those of Weyerhaeuser, and even in the frigid cold of Alaska where our thermal barrier insulation coatings helped insulate steam and water pipes for the U.S. Army. Our customers choose Synavax™ industrial and building insulating coating solutions because of the superior combined energy savings, stay clean, and asset protection benefits. Spray Coating Services
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The problem you saw with the closed cell foam pulling away like that is due to the heat of the foam was to hot. It was actually curing out and making foam before it could adhere to the wood. The installer wasn't reading his foam correctly. He should of stopped and turned down the heat on his hose temp. Also installers have to be aware that as the sun rises and the temp in attics rises the subtrates get hotter as well. This will cause the installer to adjust his heat when installing the foam as the temp changes thru out the day. Spray Coating Services